Seed to Table: Asparagus Fit for an Emperor

The phrase Velocius quam asparagi coquantur—faster than you can cook asparagus—originates with Roman Emperor Agustus, who clearly knew how to coax flavor from this delicate vegetable. Freshly picked asparagus, quickly blanched or steamed, served with butter and a squeeze of lemon tastes like spring on a plate. When combined with other ingredients, however, asparagus imparts the grassy flavor of renewal to everything it touches. In the words of essayist Charles Lamb, whose surname evokes another delight of early spring, “Asparagus inspires gentle thoughts.”

Last year, I planted two brand new asparagus beds flanking the gate of a client’s potager. I envisioned that the fronds would create a whimsical, delicate, swaying entrance to the garden; so far so good. We let them go undisturbed in their feathery glory while their crowns established themselves; this will be the first season they are eligible for a light harvest. The asparagus are still small, so we were able to plant them with a few other leafy green companions. If all goes according to plan they’ll soon take over the entire bed.

This tart is one of my favorite ways to prepare fresh asparagus and it comes together relatively quickly (Emperor Agustus approved.) Using store-bought puff pastry works just fine, although I’ve recently had success experimenting with Claire Saffitz’s rough puff pastry recipe.

The original tart recipe was developed by Melissa Clark for the New York Times, but I’ve made a few subtle tweaks as outlined below. In keeping with our noble theme, the recipe features tarragon, revered by the French as the King of Herbs. I’ve chosen to amplify its anise flavor by adding toasted fennel seeds. I’ve also replaced the parmesan with a slightly smaller quantity of Pecorino Romano, a sheep’s milk cheese with a stronger, earthier flavor.

Asparagus, Goat Cheese, and Tarragon Tart

Yield 6-8 servings

Time 1 hour

Ingredients

1 cup (4 oz) soft goat cheese, at room temperature

1 large egg, lightly beaten, at room temperature

1 large garlic clove, finely grated

1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon leaves, plus more for garnish

1/2 tablespoon of finely grated lemon zest

1/2 teaspoon of fine sea salt

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

1 cup (8 oz) crème fraîche at room temperature

All-purpose flour, for dusting the work surface

1 sheet or square all butter puff pastry, thawed if frozen (about 9-14 oz) or  1/2 batch of rough puff pastry

8 oz thin asparagus, woody ends trimmed

Extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon grated Pecorino Romano

Freshly ground black pepper

Piment d’Espelette

1/4 tsp fennel seeds, lightly toasted and ground

1 oz Pecorino Romano, shaved with a vegetable peeler

Flaky sea salt

Preparation

Step 1

Heat the oven to 425 degrees. In a medium bowl combine the goat cheese, egg, garlic, tarragon, lemon zest, salt, black pepper, and nutmeg and mix thoroughly with a fork. Switch to a whisk and beat in the crème fraîche until smooth.

Step 2

On a lightly floured surface, roll out puff pastry into a 13-by-11-inch rectangle about 1/8” thick. Transfer the dough to a parchment-lined cookie sheet. With a sharp knife, lightly score a 1/2” border around the edges of the puff pastry.

Step 3

Spread the crème fraîche mixture evenly inside the scored border. Line up the asparagus spears on top and brush them with olive oil. Sprinkle a pinch of fine sea salt and the grated pecorino over the asparagus.

Step 4

Bake until the puff pastry is golden, about 25-30 minutes. Let the tart cool for at least 15 minutes or up to 4 hours before serving. Just before serving sprinkle with Piment d’Espelette, toasted fennel seeds, the shaved Pecorino Romano, and tarragon leaves. Drizzle with olive oil and finish with a pinch of flaky sea salt.

Notes

If you cannot find Piment d’Eseplette (a French red chili powder,) crushed red pepper or Aleppo pepper are suitable alternatives.

You can assemble the tart 1 day in advance, loosely cover, and refrigerate until it’s time to bake. Reserve the sprinkling of salt and grated Pecorino until just before baking.

Wishing you gentle thoughts of spring.

Photos by Natalie Crist